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The Port of Dover as we know it is a very recent development in terms of the
history of the short sea crossing; there has been a flourishing cross-Channel
trade since at least the Bronze Age. Being the nearest point to the
mainland of Europe, with just 21 miles of sea separating the famous White Cliffs
from Cap Gris Nez near Calais, Dover was the obvious choice for small ships to
seek haven. In those days, the River Dour
was navigable for a short distance inland, and ships could moor at the quayside
where the Market Square stands today.
When the Romans under Julius Caesar attempted to land at
Dover in 55 BC, the Dour valley was the only place on the south east coast where
the sea flowed in between the hills. Whilst this made for a good haven for
shipping, it was also very easy to defend. Caesar described it in his
"Commentaries" thus:
"He reached Britain with the first squadron of ships
about the fourth hour of the day, and there saw the forces of the Britons drawn
up in arms on all the hills. The nature of the place was this: The sea was
confined by mountains so close to it that a dart could be thrown from their
summit upon the shore."
The haven, between the hills, in the estuary of the river,
was probably navigable at low tide; it was probably possible to sail as far up
river as Charlton at high water.
The Romans developed the inland harbour during the first century, building
lighthouses (pharos) on the
cliffs to the east and west of the town. This harbour had silted up by the
third century.
A new harbour was formed by the Normans in the Eastbrook after the river had
been divided by silting into two separate streams. Known as Warden Down,
this became a busy, flourishing area of the town, supporting a community of
seafarers, fishermen and shipbuilders, with two or three small shipyards
building vessels for the cross channel trade. Shipbuilding would
continue here almost to the end of the 13th century. Unfortunately, the
river became blocked by a cliff fall and this harbour fell into disuse.
The first piers were built by Sir John Clark, a priest and master of the
Maison Dieu, in 1495. These were still intact when
time Henry VIII sailed to the Field of the Cloth of Gold in 1520 but had
effectively been destroyed by wind and tide by 1530. A new, longer pier
was built in 1533 and the harbour was dredged, but this in turn was unusable by
1556.
EXTRACT FROM A
MEMORIAL, PRESENTED TO QUEEN ELIZABETH BY SIR WALTER RALEIGH,
KNIGHT.
"No promontory, town or haven, in Christendom, is so placed by
nature and situation, both to gratify friends, and annoy enemies, as
this town of Dover; no place is so settled to receive and deliver
intelligence for all matters and actions in Europe, from time to
time; no town is by nature so settled, either to allure intercourse
by sea, or to train inhabitants by land, to make it great, fair,
rich, and populous; nor is there in the whole circuit of this famous
island any port, either in respect of security and defence, or of
traffic or intercourse, more convenient, needful, or rather of
necessity to be regarded, than this of Dover, situated on a
promontory next fronting a puissant foreign king, and in the very
streight, passage, and intercourse of almost all the shipping in
Christendom.
"And if that our renowned King, (Henry 8th,) your Majesty's father,
found how necessary it was to make a haven at Dover, (when Sandwich,
Rye, Camber, and others, were good havens, and Calais also was then
in his possession,) and yet spared not to bestow, of his treasure,
so great a mass, in building that pier, which then secured a
probable means to perform the same; how much more is the same now
needful, or rather of necessity, (those good havens being extremely
decayed,) no safe harbour being left in all the coast almost between
Portsmouth and Yarmouth. Seeing, then, it hath pleased God to
give unto this realm such a situation for a port and town, as all
Christendom hath not the like, and endowed the same with all
commodities by land and sea, that can be wished, to make the harbour
allure intercourse, and maintain inhabitants; and that the same once
performed, must be advantageous to the revenue, and augment the
welfare and riches of the realm in general; and both needful and
necessary, as well for the succouring and protecting friends, as
annoying and offending enemies, both in war and peace; methinks,
there remaineth no other deliberation in this case, but how most
sufficiently, and with greatest perfection possible, most speedily
the same may be accomplished."
From "Proposed
Plan for Improving Dover Harbour" by Lt. B Worthington, R.N.,
printed by W. Batcheller, King's Arms Library, Dover, 1838.
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It was not until 1583 that work started on a new harbour with a wall
nearly half a mile long and a cross-wall to form the Pent. Work continued
on this harbour until the 1590s.
On 6th October 1606, at the request of James I, the
harbour was transferred by Royal Charter from the Corporation to a separate and
permanent body which eventually became the Dover Harbour Board. In the
preamble to the Charter, the harbour is described as having been for many ages
"noted and famous". It is further stated that "at certain times it had
fallen into such decay as any ship could scarcely enter into it", further adding
that the Tudor monarchs had expended many thousands of pounds in maintaining and
repairing the harbour.
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EXTRACT FROM THE CHARTER, GRANTED BY
KING JAMES THE FIRST, OCT. 6th, 1606.
"Whereas our Port of Dover, in our County of Kent, in the Eastern
Division, and our Kingdom of England, in times past for many ages,
hath been a most noted and famous Port and Harbour, as well for the
safe and convenient riding of ships which have put in there, or been
outward bound, as also for the most easy, speedy, and convenient
passing into France and other foreign ports beyond the seas, not
only upon the weighty and necessary affairs of the kingdoms of our
ancestors, and our kingdom of England aforesaid, but also for the
great benefit and advantage of merchants, and other subjects of the
said kingdom: and whereas the said port in certain times passed, by
the injury of those times, and also chiefly by the raging of the sea
there in a wonderful manner, and by frequent and furious storms, is
fallen into such decay as scarce any ship can put in or remain
there, without damage or danger of being lost: and whereas, also the
late most serene Wueens Elizabeth and Mary, late queens of England,
and the most famous King Edward the Sixth, and Henry the Eighth,
late Kings of England, our cousins and predecessors, and the most
renowned and prudent King Henry the Seventh, late also King of
England and our great grandfather (whose true and undoubted heir and
successor to all his kingdoms without all controversy we are,) have
laid out and expended many thousands of pounds of lawful, &c. for
supporting and repairing the said port; and we also do lay out and
be at charge in like manner, unless we would suffer the extreme and
final ruin of the said port, which would be the greatest damage and
loss to this our famous kingdom of England."
From "Proposed
Plan for Improving Dover Harbour" by Lt. B Worthington, R.N.,
printed by W. Batcheller, King's Arms Library, Dover, 1838.
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The Charter vested control in "eleven discreet men",
called the Guardian, or Warden, and Assistants of the Harbour of Dover.
These were: the Lord Warden of the Cinque Ports during the tenure of his office;
the Lieutenant of Dover Castle and the Mayor of Dover, also during the tenure of
their office; Sir Francis Fane; Sir George Fane; Sir Thomas Hartflete; Sir John
Boys; Sir Edward Boys; Matthew Hadd; Henry Heyman; and William Monyng, Esquires,
the last eight being appointed for life or during good behaviour, and their
places, when vacated, to be filled by the votes of the majority of the other
members of the Commission.
Nothing much was done to improve the harbour further until the Napoleonic
Wars, when it became necessary for the harbour to be able to receive larger
warships. Shipbuilding was still an important activity in Dover, by now
having been moved to the western end of the beach.
EXTRACT FROM: CASE OF DOVER HARBOUR
DRAWN UP ABOUT THE YEAR 1807
"Its general utility will appear from the following statements,
prepared from authentic documents of the vessels which have
entered Dover harbour during the last seven years."
1st Jan. 1800,
to |
From 50 to
100 tons |
100 to 200
tons |
200 to 300
tons |
300 to 400
tons |
400 to 500
tons |
| 1st Jan. 1801 |
366 |
66 |
2 |
0 |
0 |
| 1801 to 1802 |
419 |
64 |
12 |
5 |
0 |
| 1802 to 1803 |
543 |
43 |
5 |
1 |
0 |
| 1803 to 1804 |
523 |
62 |
13 |
2 |
0 |
| 1804 to 1805 |
488 |
52 |
7 |
1 |
0 |
| 1805 to 1806 |
383 |
62 |
30 |
2 |
1 |
| 1806 to 1807 |
470 |
112 |
29 |
4 |
2 |
"This statement does not include revenue, victualling, or ordnance
vessels, H. M. cruisers, or any vessels belonging to Dover."
From "Proposed
Plan for Improving Dover Harbour" by Lt. B Worthington, R.N.,
printed by W. Batcheller, King's Arms Library, Dover, 1838.
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A Committee of the House of Commons was
appointed in 1836 to enquire into the state of the harbour in support of the "Proposed
Plan for Improving Dover Harbour."
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THE COMMITTEE APPOINTED, WERE
| Mr. Fector |
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Mr. Plumptre |
| Sir Edward Knatchbull |
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Mr. Ingham |
| Mr. Majoribanks |
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Sir John Rae Reid |
| Mr. Thomas Baring |
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Lord Viscount Mahon |
| Mr. Hume |
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Mr. Bernal |
| Sir Charles Adam |
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Mr. Elphinstone |
| Mr. Herries |
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Mr. Robinson |
| Mr. Robert Steuart |
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From "Proposed
Plan for Improving Dover Harbour" by Lt. B Worthington, R.N.,
printed by W. Batcheller, King's Arms Library, Dover, 1838.
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Among others to be called to give
evidence before the Committee was Mr. John Iron, the Harbour Master.
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MR. JOHN IRON called in, and examined.
[Ques. 424. Chairman.] You are
harbour-master of Dover? - I am.
[Ques. 436.] Do you keep a register of the depth of water in the bar
daily? - Not at the bar; I keep a register of the depth of water
that is in the turn-water.
[Ques. 437.] You mean the north pier? - Yes; I mean the index-board
placed against the south pier.
[Ques. 438.] What is the average depth in ordinary neap tides? -
About 13 feet; in spring tides about 17 feet 3 inches.
[Ques. 441. Mr. Hume.] Are we to understand that when the
index shows 13 feet, a vessel of 13 feet of water can come in? - Not
if the bar is across, but in the channel, whichever way the channel
may be formed.
[Ques. 442.] Do not the banks of shingle often shift at the mouth? -
Decidedly.
[Ques. 443.] In the ordinary state of the harbour, what is the
breadth of the channel? - In the ordinary state of the harbour, I
should say 100 feet.
[Ques. 444.] In answer to a question, "Can a vessel drawing 13 feet
of water come into the harbour when the index in the turn-water
shows 13 feet depth," you said, "No; but they could come into the
channel." What is the depth of this channel? - That depends
upon circumstances, according to the quantity of beach that is
washed round the pier.
[Ques. 445.] Mr. Dundas.] It is an unknown channel? - It
changes according to the wind.
[Ques. 448.] Does the state of the wind, easterly or westerly, have
any great effect? - The south-west wind makes the bar; the east wind
has no effect on it.
From "Proposed
Plan for Improving Dover Harbour" by Lt. B Worthington, R.N.,
printed by W. Batcheller, King's Arms Library, Dover, 1838.
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It was not until 1841 that plans were produced by the Admiralty for a
proposed new harbour with breakwaters enclosing the bay. These plans were
amended in 1844 and 1845 to provide a larger harbour than the previous plans and
work began on the Admiralty Pier in 1847.
| HARBOURS OF REFUGE. Among the engineering works now in progress,
in the southern half of our island, the formation of harbours of
refuge is not the least important. Numerous as are our ports,
harbours, bays, and estuaries, fitted to receive and despatch
merchant shipping, there is a deficiency of harbours into which
fleets could go to find shelter during a storm, and which would
serve as general places of rendezvous for shipping. Dover is in
many respects one of the most important harbours on the coast;
chiefly from its proximity to the continent. Yet it is only a
tidal harbour, and has a shallow entrance even when the tide is in.
Many a merchantman would be glad to avoid the perils of the Goodwin
Sands by a temporary anchorage in Dover Harbour, if it were better
suited as a refuge. In 1844 a Government Commission was
appointed to consider this subject, in relation to the forming of
harbours of refuge for merchant ships, and stations for war ships.
The commissioners recommended extensive works at Dover, Portland,
Seaford, and Harwich, with this object in view; to be proceeded with
in the order here specified if all could not be advanced
simultaneously. The recommendation was adopted, in its main
features, by the Government. The harbour of refuge at Dover is
being constructed; there is to be a harbour of 520 acres up ro high
water mark, or 380 acres at low water; there is to be an entrance
700 feet wide on the south side, and another 150 feet wide on the
east. The first work will be a pier, running out from the
point called Cheeseman's Head into seven fathoms water; it will
protect the existing harbour during south-west gales, and will form
the first link in the great wall of masonry which will enclose the
harbour. The eastern boundary of the harbour will be far
beyond the limits of the present inhabited town of Dover; the
harbour will be a mile and a quarter from east to west, and three
quarters of a mile from north to south. The existing contract
for a part of the works was taken in July 1847; the works were
commenced in October of the same year; in 1848 the masonry was
carried out 270 feet from the shore; in 1849 this length was
increased to 460 feet; in 1850 the works were proceeding steadily,
until a terrific storm on the night of the 7th of October, produced
very disastrous results on the masonry and scaffolding. Much
of the subsequent labour has been in repair of this disaster.
From Knight's
Cyclopaedia of the Industry of All Nations,
published by Charles Knight, Fleet Street, 1851
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The building of the Eastern Arm
of the harbour was not commenced until around 1900.
The harbour as it is today was completed shortly before the Great War, but
development continues on new ferry berths and port facilities.
Unlike many small ports along the South Coast, the Port of Dover has resisted
the encroachment of sand and shingle to become a very busy harbour catering for
passengers, vehicles and freight as well as pleasure craft and, most recently,
cruise liners.
In the past decades, a great deal of change has occurred in the harbour, with
the vast expansion of the Eastern Docks, the closure of the Train Ferry Dock,
the building of the International Hoverport (now also closed) and the creation of the
Cruise Liner Terminal from the Marine Station and part of the Admiralty Pier.
There are proposals to make major changes to the Western Docks, filling in the
old inner harbour to provide landward facilities for more new freight berths.
Plans have also been submitted to reclaim a further piece of land from the sea
to form a new exit road from the Eastern Docks to improve traffic flow.
The Port has its own police force, with jurisdiction up to a mile from the
dock gates (which covers a large part of the town), providing armed patrols in
the Eastern Docks. The influence of the Harbour Board spreads a long way
from the Port, as large stretches of the M20 motorway are regularly closed to
traffic due to Operation Stack; the coast-bound carriageway becomes a temporary
lorry park whenever there are major hold-ups at the port, caused by strikes by
French ferry workers or bad weather. In order to avoid this in the future,
the Board is seeking permission to turn a large area of open countryside outside
Dover into a permanent lorry park. There is a lot of opposition to this
locally as it is in an area of natural beauty on the North Downs.
Future plans
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